Close enough to the action to feel buzzy and vibrant, yet just far enough out of the touristic centre to ensure an authentic experience. This cosy and classic apartment is filled with traditional touches such as colourful tiled floors, a light-filled living room that's perfect for putting your feet up and a compact kitchen that can handle anything you care to throw at it. In addition, the views out over Palácio de São Bento, home of the Portuguese parliament, provide a real sense of place. While most visitors flock to Alfama and pack out the bars of Bairro Alto, we'd suggest that it's Príncipe Real that is on the up. Walk 500m to the lush Jardim do Príncipe Real. Here, locals gather to sit and sip coffee, play chess and gossip – it's a genuine slice of Lisbon life. But there's a lot more going on here than bica (espresso) and board games. The neighbourhood is a haven for foodies too. Right by the park, you'll find celebrated A Cevicheria, where diners gather to indulge in flawlessly executed small plate seafood. At the same time, Atalho Real serves sumptuous steaks in a laid-back atmosphere. And the fun doesn't stop when the sun goes down – local fave Pavilhão Chinês serves up inventive cocktails in an old grocery store packed out with antiques.

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