If you wander through the winding streets of the Mouraria neighbourhood, you might come across this traditional apartment building, clad in delicately patterned tiles. You might expect that the inside will be similarly traditional, but this flat is sleek and modern, inspired by Scandi-style minimalism rather than the typical Portuguese design. In spite of being closer to an apart-hotel than a private residence, we liked having the friendly concierge team on-hand offer a variety of services – from massages to tour guides they have the best contacts in town. And, while it's still disputed whether fado was born in Mouraria or the Alfama area, one thing is for certain – the streets that surround this apartment are full of fado houses and monuments to the music. Grab a glass of port, sit back, and be transported back hundreds of years by these haunting melodies.

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